Jewellery Care & Maintenance: The Master Guide to Preservation (UK Jewellers' Edition)

Fine jewellery should be professionally cleaned and inspected once or twice per year. This is particularly important for engagement rings and items worn daily. Over 6 months, skin oils and debris build up behind stones, and metal-on-metal friction can begin to wear away the security of the claws. A bi-annual visit to H.E. Phillips Ltd ensures your pieces are technically audited and showroom-ready.

Yes, absolutely. Ultrasonic cleaning uses high-frequency sound waves to create microscopic bubbles. While effective for hard stones, it can shatter Emeralds, dry out Opals, and cause the silk thread in Pearls to rot. It can also loosen stones in pavé settings if the metal has existing fatigue. We manually inspect every item before choosing an ultrasonic method.

Mild at-home cleaning is safe for many robust pieces using lukewarm water and gentle, pH-neutral dish soap. However, you must avoid harsh chemicals like bleach, abrasives such as toothpaste, and excessive heat. For porous or organic stones, home cleaning should be limited to a damp cloth wipe to prevent permanent damage to the stone's internal structure.

To prevent silver tarnish, store your pieces in airtight containers or individual zip-lock bags with anti-tarnish strips. The black coating on silver is caused by a reaction with sulfur in the air. By minimizing air exposure and keeping the items away from humidity (like bathrooms) and direct sunlight, you drastically reduce the frequency of polishing required.

Settings wear down due to a process called 'abrasion.' Every time your ring touches a hard surface, a microscopic amount of metal is displaced or removed. Daily wear causes gradual metal fatigue, especially on claws and prongs. If not regularly checked and 're-tipped' by a professional jeweller, the metal will eventually become too thin to secure the gemstone, leading to a loss.

Rhodium plating is a surface coating of a white, platinum-group metal applied to White Gold to give it a bright, reflective finish. White gold naturally has a slightly warm, yellowish tint. This plating wears away over 1-2 years through friction and contact with the skin. Re-plating in our Totnes workshop is a standard maintenance task that restores the original white lustre.

This is usually a chemical reaction between your skin's acidity and the base metal alloys (like copper or silver) found in 9ct gold. It is often exacerbated by moisture or hand creams trapped beneath the band. Switching to a higher purity like 18ct gold or naturally white Platinum, which contains fewer reactive alloys, usually eliminates this reaction entirely.

Yes, but antique and vintage jewellery requires a 'manual' approach. Old solder can be brittle, and Victorian or Edwardian settings are often not watertight. We avoid high-power ultrasonics and heat for these pieces, instead using traditional hand-skills and gentle cleaners to ensure the historical integrity of the item is not compromised.

Yes, chlorine is the 'enemy' of gold jewellery. It reacts with the alloying metals in gold (especially in 9ct and 14ct) to create 'stress corrosion cracking.' This makes the metal brittle, causing prongs and claws to snap without warning. You should always remove your gold jewellery before swimming in pools or using hot tubs.

Platinum is denser and superior for securing stones because it 'displaces' rather than wears away. Gold is harder to scratch initially but is lost over decades through friction. For an engagement ring intended for lifelong wear, Platinum offers better long-term security, while 18ct Gold is easier to polish and maintain to a high shine.

9ct gold contains only 37.5% pure gold, with a higher percentage of copper and silver. These alloys react with the air and skin oils more quickly than 18ct (75% pure gold), leading to faster tarnishing. Regular polishing with a professional cloth is required to keep 9ct gold looking its best.

Yes. We can perform a 'solder repair' or a full 're-shank.' If the bottom of your ring has become dangerously thin, we remove the worn metal and replace it with a new, thicker piece of gold or platinum, restoring the structural strength of the ring while preserving the top setting.

The Vickers test measures a metal's resistance to indentation. In jewellery care, we use these values to ensure that two rings worn together (like a bridal set) have compatible hardness. If one is significantly harder than the other, it will 'saw' through the softer ring over time.

No. Metal-on-metal contact between a gold ring and a steel barbell will instantly warp the band and flatten your claws. Furthermore, if the ring is caught, it can lead to 'ring avulsion' injuries. Always remove your rings and store them in a secure jewellery storage accessory before beginning any weight-bearing exercise.

No. Wearing jewellery to bed causes unnecessary stress on the pieces. Chains can easily kink or snap, earring posts can bend, and ring claws can catch on the loose weave of bedding. Removing your items at night allows the metal and the stones to 'rest' and prevents them from attracting bedding lint behind the settings.

Jewellery should be the last thing you put on in the morning (after hairspray, perfume, and makeup have fully dried) and the first thing you remove at night. This simple habit minimizes the exposure of your gemstones and metals to harmful chemicals that can cause permanent dulling or surface damage.

Occasional use is safe for Diamonds, Sapphires, and Rubies. However, the high alcohol content can dry out organic stones like Opals and Pearls, leading to cracking. Additionally, sanitizer creates a sticky film behind the stone that traps dirt and kills the 'sparkle'. Remove your rings when applying gels.

We advise against it. Soap scum and mineral deposits from 'hard water' build up quickly in the intricate parts of a setting. Shampoos and conditioners can also contain chemicals that are too harsh for porous gems like Turquoise or Tanzanite. Removing your jewellery keeps it cleaner for much longer.

If a ring is stuck, do not panic or pull forcefully, as this causes the finger to swell further. Use cold water to reduce swelling and a lubricant like dish soap or window cleaner. If the ring remains stuck and is causing discomfort, visit H.E. Phillips Ltd for professional, safe removal in our workshop.

Yes, but only if you have a secure place to put it! Leaving a ring on a sink edge is a major cause of loss. We recommend having a 'ring dish' near your sinks. Taking it off prevents soap buildup behind the stones and keeps the metal from reacting with harsh hand-washes.

No. This is a common but dangerous myth. Toothpaste contains abrasive particles designed for tooth enamel which is much harder than gold or silver. Using it will leave microscopic scratches all over your jewellery, dulling the finish and making the metal tarnish faster over time.

Yes. We can professionally solder gold, silver, and platinum chains. We also inspect the remaining links for 'wear-through' to ensure the chain doesn't snap elsewhere. If a chain is beyond repair, we can advise on a suitable replacement from our Vintage Gold collection.

Laser welding is a high-tech repair method that uses a concentrated beam of light to join metal. Unlike a traditional torch, it generates almost no heat in the surrounding area, making it safe to repair jewellery with heat-sensitive stones like Emeralds or Opals without unsetting them.

Yes, in most cases. Resizing a 'shouldered' ring requires careful calculation to ensure the curve of the band doesn't change enough to loosen the side stones. Our workshop specialists inspect every shoulder setting after a resize to ensure complete security.

At H.E. Phillips Ltd, all technical inspections and repair quotes are provided free of charge. We believe in transparency and will explain the technical necessity of any work required before you commit to a Workshop Project.

Yes. We have an extensive network of suppliers and can source natural diamonds to perfectly match your existing stones for colour, cut, and clarity. We then professionally reset the stone in our workshop to ensure a seamless and secure result.

Yes. We provide official, detailed valuations for insurance and probate. These documents provide the technical specifications and market replacement values your insurer requires to provide full coverage for your collection in the event of loss or theft.

Yes. We recommend professional re-stringing every 1-2 years if worn frequently. The silk thread used for pearls is organic; it stretches, weakens, and attracts dirt that can act like a file, wearing away the drill holes of the pearls from the inside.

A hinged shank is a specialist repair for those with arthritic or enlarged knuckles. It allows the ring band to open on a hinge so it can be placed directly on the base of the finger and then locked shut, providing a comfortable and secure fit for those who can no longer slide rings over their knuckle.

Our showroom and workshop are located at 19 Fore Street, Totnes, Devon, TQ9 5DA. We are a family-run independent specialist and have served the South West community with expert jewellery and horological services for generations.

Yes. We are open Monday through Saturday from 09:00 to 16:30. We are closed on Sundays and Bank Holidays. You are welcome to visit us anytime during these hours for professional advice or to drop off items for service.

While we are on the historic Totnes high street, there are several public car parks (such as North Street and Heath Way) located within a 2-5 minute walk of our central showroom, making it easy to drop off your repairs.

Yes. We offer competitive cash or trade-in values for scrap gold, silver, platinum, and unwanted jewellery. Our rates are updated daily based on the global market, and we can often offset this value against the cost of your repairs or new purchases.

Yes! As an official Citizen stockist, we provide full technical Watch Repairs in our in-house workshop. We specialize in Eco-Drive capacitors, glass replacements, and pressure testing for water resistance.

No, walk-ins are always welcome for cleaning, ring inspections, and repair quotes. If you wish to discuss a complex Bespoke Design or a large probate valuation, booking ahead ensures our lead specialist is available to dedicate time to you.

Yes. All our Workshop Projects come with a 12-month guarantee on the specific work performed. We stand by the quality of our craftsmanship and ensure that every item leaving our care is structurally sound and aesthetically perfected.

Yes. We are happy to take in scrap gold or unwanted silver and apply that value directly to the cost of professional cleaning, Rhodium plating, or any restoration service we provide in our Devon workshop.

Your items are fully protected while in our care. We maintain comprehensive insurance coverage and all items are stored in high-security, grade-rated safes overnight within our protected Fore Street premises.

Simply bring your jewellery into the showroom. Our specialists will perform a technical assessment of carats, weights, and stone qualities to produce a formal, legally recognized document for your insurance provider.