-
Your shopping cart is empty!
Natural Diamond Guides
Natural Diamonds: The Ultimate Guide to Earth-Mined Brilliance
H.E. Phillips Expert Verdict: "A natural diamond is a miracle of geological history, forged over billions of years deep within the Earth. At H.E. Phillips Ltd, we believe that the true value of a diamond lies in its unique 'fingerprint' of inclusions and its documented provenance. Whether you are selecting a stone for one of our Diamond Engagement Rings or sourcing a loose stone for a Bespoke Design, our expertise ensures you understand the delicate balance of the 4Cs. In an era of alternatives, the scarcity and enduring value of a natural, earth-mined diamond remains the gold standard for significant milestones."
Expert Consultation: Questions to Consider Asking Your Jeweller
Engaging with a specialist should be a transparent process. Before you finalize a purchase or authorize a restoration, it is vital to understand the history and technical state of the piece. A knowledgeable jeweller should be able to discuss 'witness marks' of previous repairs, the presence of any heat treatments in gemstones, and the structural risks associated with specific vintage settings. These questions are designed to reveal the depth of a jeweller's expertise and ensure you are fully informed before any financial commitment is made.
| Focus | The Question to Ask | Expert Reason Why |
|---|---|---|
| Certification | "Is this diamond GIA certified, and can I see the report?" | A GIA report is the gold standard for independent verification. It ensures the 4Cs are accurately represented by a third party. |
| Origin | "Do you follow the Kimberley Process for ethical sourcing?" | This guarantees that your natural diamond is conflict-free and ethically mined according to international standards. |
| Durability | "Will this setting properly protect the diamond's girdle?" | The girdle (edge) is the most prone to chipping. A secure setting is vital for the stone's long-term safety. |
TOP TIP: When viewing a diamond, always look at it under natural light as well as showroom LEDs. Showroom lights are designed to exaggerate sparkle; natural daylight reveals the stone's true body colour and "fire."
The 4Cs: The Universal Language of Natural Diamonds
Understanding the 4Cs—Cut, Colour, Clarity, and Carat Weight—is essential for assessing the quality and value of any natural diamond. This grading system was pioneered by the GIA (Gemological Institute of America) to create a consistent global standard for valuation. Each factor is a variable that contributes to the stone's overall fire, brilliance, and scintillation. While Carat weight is a measurement of size, the 'Cut' is arguably the most complex factor to evaluate, as it determines how light travels through the stone. At H.E. Phillips Ltd, we help you navigate these technical trade-offs to find a diamond that offers the most spectacular visual performance for your investment.
| The C | Definition | Impact on Value |
|---|---|---|
| Cut | The precision of the diamond's facets. | Very High. Determines 'Fire' and 'Brilliance'. |
| Colour | Lack of tint (D is the best). | High. Rare colourless stones command a premium. |
| Clarity | Lack of internal inclusions. | Medium. VS1-SI1 often offers the best value. |
| Carat | The weight of the stone. | High. Large stones are exponentially rarer. |
Elite Inspection Guide: Identifying Quality & Potential Issues
Evaluating natural diamonds requires more than just an aesthetic appreciation; it demands a technical audit of the metal's health and the stone's security. Over decades, gold and platinum naturally wear down. When we inspect a piece for purchase or repair, we look for 'mushroomed' claws that no longer grip the stone girdle and signs of 'metal fatigue' in the mount. This guide empowers you to spot these red flags, allowing you to choose pieces that are structurally sound or understand exactly what is required to restore them to a safe, wearable condition.
| Inspection Point | What to Check | The Technical "Why" |
|---|---|---|
| Claw Health | Check for flat or missing prongs. | Worn prongs lead to lost stones. Re-tipping ensures the safety of your gemstones. |
| Stone Security | Listen for a 'click' when tapping the stone. | A clicking sound indicates a loose stone, which will eventually wear away the metal and fall out. |
| Surface Nicks | Check the facet edges for 'frosting' or tiny chips. | Indicates the stone has been struck or rubbed. High-quality diamonds should be re-polished if abraded. |
TOP TIP: Always clean your diamond ring before a self-inspection. Oil and lotion buildup can hide loose stones by acting like a temporary adhesive.
Official UK Hallmarking & Metal Purity Standards
The UK hallmarking system is the oldest form of consumer protection in the world. For the second hand jewellery and natural diamond market, these stamps are the primary method of verifying that the metal you are buying is precisely what the seller claims. Every hallmark is comprised of three compulsory symbols: the Sponsor's Mark, the Metal Fineness Mark, and the Assay Office Mark. Below, we have detailed the technical specifications for Platinum 950 and Sterling Silver 925, alongside traditional gold standards. By learning to read these marks, you can verify the material integrity of any piece independently.
| Metal Type | Standard Stamp | Purity | Technical Context |
|---|---|---|---|
| Platinum | 950 | 95.0% | The most durable metal; does not tarnish and holds gems most securely. |
| Sterling Silver | 925 | 92.5% | The international standard. Look for the 'Lion Passant' on British pieces. |
| 18ct Gold | 750 | 75.0% | The premier choice for luxury; offers rich colour and high tarnish resistance. |
| 9ct Gold | 375 | 37.5% | Durable and hard-wearing; the most common British hallmark for bangles. |
Gold Carat & Fineness Technical Guide
Caratage (ct) is the measurement of gold's purity in a piece of jewellery, representing the ratio of pure gold to other alloying metals. In the second hand jewellery market, understanding these ratios is vital for determining both the weight-value of the metal and its suitability for specific uses. While 22ct is traditionally prized for its deep yellow hue, it is often too soft for complex stone settings. Conversely, 18ct and 9ct offer the structural hardness required for the daily rigors of life. Notably, 15ct gold remains a highly sought-after 'historical' find, as it was discontinued in 1932, making it a definitive marker of an authentic antique piece.
| Carat (ct) | Numerical Mark | Gold Percentage | Historical Context |
|---|---|---|---|
| 22ct Gold | 916 | 91.6% | Rich yellow and soft; traditionally used for simple wedding bands. |
| 18ct Gold | 750 | 75.0% | The standard for fine jewellery. Offers the best balance of purity and strength. |
| 15ct Gold | 625 | 62.5% | Rare Standard: Discontinued in 1932. Highly sought after by collectors. |
| 9ct Gold | 375 | 37.5% | Excellent durability for daily-wear chains and bracelets. |
Expanded Birthstone & Symbolism Chart
Gemstones are the emotional heart of jewellery, each carrying centuries of folklore and symbolic tradition. From a technical perspective, a stone's 'Hardness' (measured on the Mohs scale) is the most critical factor in its longevity. While a Diamond is practically 'invincible', softer stones like Opals or Pearls require specialized care. This expanded chart combines the romantic history of each stone with the technical data you need to ensure your birthstone selection is compatible with your lifestyle and wear habits.
| Month | Stone | Historical Context & Meaning | Hardness (Mohs) |
|---|---|---|---|
| Jan | Garnet | The 'Stone of Constancy'. Victorian garnets symbolize deep friendship. | 6.5 - 7.5 |
| Feb | Amethyst | Associated with royalty and spiritual clarity. Prized in estate pieces. | 7 |
| Apr | Diamond | 'Invincible'. Symbolizes eternal love. Highest sparkle and durability. | 10 |
| Jul | Ruby | 'Lord of Gems'. Represents passion, courage, and historic prosperity. | 9 |
| Aug | Peridot | 'Evening Emerald'. Symbolizes trust and protection against negativity. | 6.5 - 7 |
| Sep | Sapphire | Associated with noble wisdom and loyalty. Highly scratch-resistant for rings. | 9 |
| Nov | Topaz | Symbolizes warmth, success, and joy. Available in rare 'Imperial' gold hues. | 8 |
Gemstone Encyclopedia: Character & Technical Specifications
In the world of fine jewellery, the value of a gemstone is often determined by its provenance and the method by which it was historically cut. This encyclopedia focuses on the technical nuances of these stones, providing you with the vocabulary to appreciate the artisan history of every stone in our collection. We have expanded this library to cover the most popular stones found in our workshop, from the deep reds of rubies to the ancient fossilised resin of amber.
| Gemstone | Visual Character & Lore | Technical Context | Durability / Mohs |
|---|---|---|---|
| Diamond | Known for its 'Adamas' (invincible) nature. Natural diamonds exhibit high 'dispersion', breaking light into rainbow flashes. | Look for Old Mine cuts in vintage pieces. The only stone suitable for 24/7 engagement ring wear. | 10 |
| Ruby | The most valuable variety of corundum. Prized for its 'fluorescence' which makes the stone glow under sunlight. | Often 'heat-treated' to improve colour. Burmese rubies with 'Pigeon Blood' hues are the gold standard. | 9 |
| Sapphire | Part of the Corundum family. Famous for 'Cornflower Blue', but also comes in pink, yellow, and green. | Vintage sapphires often show 'silk' (fine inclusions) which proves natural origin and lack of high heat. | 9 |
| Topaz | Historically associated with the sun. Natural 'Imperial Topaz' is a rare orange-pink; most blue topaz is treated. | Has 'perfect cleavage', meaning it can split if struck hard. Always choose protective settings for topaz rings. | 8 |
| Amethyst | The premier purple variety of quartz. Once as valuable as diamonds until large deposits were found in Brazil. | Sensitive to high heat, which can cause the purple to fade over decades. Store away from direct intense sunlight. | 7 |
| Peridot | An 'idiochromatic' gem, meaning its green colour comes from its internal chemistry, not external impurities. | Also known as the 'Evening Emerald'. One of the few gemstones found in meteorites (Pallasite peridot). | 6.5 - 7 |
| Garnet | Named after the pomegranate seed. While famous for deep reds, tsavorite garnets are a vibrant emerald green. | Garnets do not have cleavage planes, making them tough despite being mid-range on the hardness scale. | 6.5 - 7.5 |
| Amber | Fossilised tree resin from ancient forests. Amber is organic and often contains 'inclusions' like prehistoric insects. | Extremely soft and lightweight. Amber will actually float in saltwater and is warm to the touch. | 2 - 2.5 |
Restoration Services & Workshop Portfolio
Our workshop in Totnes is a specialist hub for the sympathetic restoration of second hand jewellery. We focus on preserving the original era-correct character of a piece while rebuilding its structural future. Recent projects include the complete reconstruction of worn claws on an Art Deco platinum ring and the careful soldering of a Victorian gold chain to ensure it remains wearable for another century. We treat every repair as a preservation of history, combining modern precision with traditional hand-skills.
TOP TIP: Always ask for a formal receipt of works for any restoration. This document is essential for maintaining the provenance and insurance value of your piece.
Professional Natural Diamond Knowledge Base
Investment & Value
Is second hand jewellery a better investment?
Buying second hand avoids the 20% VAT and manufacturing markups of new items. You pay for the intrinsic value of the gold and gems, meaning your investment retains more value from day one.
Does vintage jewellery hold its value?
High-quality gold and certified diamonds historically retain value better than mass-produced modern items. Rare Art Deco and Victorian pieces often appreciate as they become harder to find.
Why buy vintage diamonds?
Vintage diamonds were hand-cut, giving them a unique personality. They are the most sustainable choice as they require no new mining, making them 100% conflict-free.
What is 'Estate' jewellery?
This is a professional term for any jewellery that has been previously owned, ranging from antique museum-quality pieces to modern pre-owned trade-ins.
Is 15ct gold more valuable?
Yes, because it was discontinued in 1932, it is a rare and highly collectable hallmark that proves the item is an authentic antique.
Are old diamonds always conflict-free?
Yes. Because vintage diamonds were mined decades or centuries ago, they pre-date modern conflict issues and require no new industrial impact.
Does second hand jewellery appreciate?
Specific eras, such as Art Deco or signed pieces from houses like Cartier or Tiffany, have shown strong historical appreciation due to rarity.
Should I buy second hand gold or new?
Second hand gold provides more weight for your money. If you value craftsmanship and metal weight over brand-new packaging, second hand is the superior choice.
Authentication & Hallmarks
How do I identify a 925 silver hallmark?
Look for the 'Lion Passant' symbol or the '925' stamp. In our showroom, we use loupes to verify marks that have worn down over time.
What does the '750' mark mean?
The 750 mark indicates 18ct gold, meaning 750 parts per 1000 are pure gold. This is the premier standard for luxury second hand jewellery.
What is a sponsor's mark?
The mark of the person or firm who sent the item for hallmarking. It helps trace the piece back to its original workshop or maker.
Why are some hallmarks tiny?
On delicate vintage rings, space is limited. We use 10x magnification loupes to identify these miniature stamps for our customers.
What is the Assay Office mark?
Symbols like the Leopard (London) or Anchor (Birmingham) tell you exactly where in the UK the metal purity was tested and verified.
Can I trust unhallmarked second hand gold?
Items below certain weights don't require hallmarks. We use X-Ray fluorescence (XRF) testing to verify any unhallmarked pieces in our shop.
What is a Date Letter?
A letter in the hallmark that indicates exactly which year the piece was hallmarked, allowing for precise dating of antique jewellery.
Does platinum have a hallmark?
Yes, look for the 'Orb' or the number '950'. It is a legal requirement for platinum over 0.5 grams.
Care & Maintenance
How do I clean second hand gold?
Use warm, soapy water and a soft toothbrush. Gently scrub the back of the stones where oils accumulate. Avoid chemicals on opals, emeralds, or pearls.
Can second hand rings be resized?
Most can. Our master jewellers specialize in sympathetic resizing that preserves original hallmarks and era-correct proportions of the band.
What is Rhodium plating?
White gold is plated with Rhodium for brightness. This wears away over time; we can re-plate your second hand jewellery to restore its original white lustre.
How often should I check my prongs?
We recommend a professional inspection every 6 months for any regularly worn second hand ring to ensure stones remain secure.
What if a stone is loose?
Stop wearing the piece immediately and bring it to H.E. Phillips Ltd. We can tighten the setting and check for metal fatigue in the claws.
Can you repair a broken chain?
Yes, we provide full soldering and repair services in our Devon workshop for all types of precious metal chains and bracelets.
Is ultrasonic cleaning safe for vintage?
Not always. Stones like emeralds, opals, and pearls can be damaged. We manually inspect every second hand piece before choosing a cleaning method.
Why does vintage silver go black?
It is oxidation. Regular use of a professional silver cloth prevents this; heavily tarnished items can be professionally dipped and polished.
Gemstones & Diamonds
What is an 'Old Mine Cut' diamond?
Old Mine cuts have a squarish shape and a high crown. They were hand-faceted before modern lasers, designed to sparkle under candlelight.
Can I get a GIA certificate for second hand?
Yes. While many don't come with them, we can send significant diamonds to the GIA for grading to provide you with an official report.
What are 'synthetic' stones in vintage?
Victorian and Art Deco jewellery sometimes used synthetic rubies or sapphires. These were high-tech at the time; we identify these using gemological tools.
Why are emeralds so fragile?
Emeralds have natural internal fractures called 'Jardin'. These make the stone brittle, which is why second hand emeralds require protective settings.
Are second hand pearls worth buying?
Yes, especially high-quality cultured or rare natural pearls. They offer a classic lustre that complements any vintage gold collection.
What is 'Silk' in a sapphire?
Silk refers to fine needle-like inclusions. In second hand sapphires, this is often a sign of a natural, untreated stone from a desirable origin.
How do I protect my opal?
Keep it away from high heat and sudden temperature changes. Opals contain water, so extreme dryness can cause them to 'craze' or crack.
What is a 'Rose Cut' diamond?
An antique cut with a flat base and a faceted dome. It has a subtle, watery shimmer and is very popular in Victorian second hand jewellery.
Local Store & Services
Where is H.E. Phillips Ltd in Devon?
Our showroom is located at 19 Fore Street, Totnes, Devon, TQ9 5DA. We are easy to find on the main high street, near the historic Eastgate Arch.
What are your opening hours?
We are open Monday through Saturday, from 09:00 to 16:30. We are closed on Sundays and Bank Holidays.
Do you buy second hand gold for cash?
Yes, we offer competitive trade-in values and cash for second hand gold and platinum in our Totnes showroom, updated daily.
Can you repair my vintage watch?
Yes. Our workshop provides full Watch Repairs for mechanical timepieces that require sympathetic part sourcing.
Do you offer insurance valuations?
Yes. We provide official, detailed valuations for insurance and probate for second hand items, assessing metal purity and stone quality.
Can you replace a missing vintage stone?
Yes, we specialize in sourcing period-accurate gemstones to ensure your restoration remains authentic to its original design era.
Do I need an appointment for a repair?
No, walk-ins are welcome between 09:00 and 16:30. Our staff can perform a preliminary inspection and provide a quote immediately.
Can I design a ring using second hand gold?
Yes! Our Bespoke Service can melt down your unwanted second hand gold to create a brand-new, unique design.
Visit H.E. Phillips Ltd in Totnes
| Day | Opening Hours |
|---|---|
| Monday | 09:00 - 16:30 |
| Tuesday | 09:00 - 16:30 |
| Wednesday | 09:00 - 16:30 |
| Thursday | 09:00 - 16:30 |
| Friday | 09:00 - 16:30 |
| Saturday | 09:00 - 16:30 |
| Sunday | Closed |
19 Fore Street, Totnes, Devon, TQ9 5DA
Phone: 01803 866018
Customer Reviews & Testimonials
"A masterclass in customer service and expertise. The natural diamond engagement ring we had restored at H.E. Phillips is now a family heirloom. Highly recommended." — J. Smith, Devon
"The team in Totnes really know their stuff. Their guidance on natural vs lab diamonds was invaluable." — M. Thompson, Totnes