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Coloured Gemstone Guides
Coloured Gemstone Guides
Natural Diamonds | H.E. Phillips Ltd | Devon Specialist Jewellers

Natural Diamonds: The Ultimate Authority Guide to Earth-Mined Brilliance

H.E. Phillips Expert Verdict: "A natural diamond is a geological masterpiece, forged over billions of years under unimaginable pressure. At H.E. Phillips Ltd, we champion the natural diamond for its intrinsic scarcity and its proven history as a stable store of value. Whether you are seeking a centrepiece for a Diamond Engagement Ring or a rare investment stone, our Totnes specialists provide the technical transparency you need. From GIA certification to the delicate craft of Diamond Setting Repairs, we ensure that every stone we sell or restore meets the highest standards of the Devon horological and jewellery community."

Expert Consultation: Essential Questions for the Diamond Buyer

Choosing a natural diamond is a significant decision that requires a balance of aesthetic preference and technical understanding. At H.E. Phillips Ltd, we encourage our clients to ask deep, probing questions regarding a stone’s provenance and grading. It is vital to understand not just the grade on a certificate, but how that diamond performs under different lighting conditions and how its unique inclusions might affect its structural integrity over time. A professional consultation in our Totnes showroom allows you to view stones under 10x magnification, ensuring you are fully informed before making an investment in these earth-mined treasures.

Focus The Question to Ask Technical Importance
Certification"Is this diamond GIA certified, and can I see the report?"GIA is the gold standard for independent verification, ensuring your diamond's 4Cs are accurately and strictly graded.
Ethical Origin"Is this stone Kimberley Process compliant?"Guarantees the diamond is conflict-free and ethically sourced according to international humanitarian standards.
Maintenance"Does this setting require specific care or regular tightening?"Certain high-profile settings or delicate prongs require more frequent check-ups to prevent stone loss.
TOP TIP: Always check the diamond's "fluorescence" on the certificate. While "Faint" is usually neutral, "Strong Blue" can actually make a slightly yellowish diamond (H-J grade) look whiter in natural daylight, potentially saving you money.

Mastering the 4Cs: The Technical Foundation of Quality

The 4Cs—Cut, Colour, Clarity, and Carat Weight—form the universal language used by gemologists to communicate diamond quality. While most consumers focus on Carat weight (the size), the 'Cut' is technically the most critical factor in a stone’s beauty. A diamond with a 'Poor' cut will appear dull and lifeless, regardless of how colourless or clear it is. Conversely, a diamond with an 'Excellent' cut can hide minor inclusions and make a slightly tinted stone appear bright and fiery. At H.E. Phillips Ltd, we provide side-by-side comparisons so you can see how light-return and scintillation differ across various grading levels.

The C Definition Investment Impact
CutThe precision of facets and light reflection.Highest. This determines the 'fire' and visual impact.
ColourThe lack of body tint (D is the top grade).Very High. Rare colourless stones command the highest premiums.
ClarityThe absence of internal inclusions or blemishes.High. FL-IF stones are rare; VS-SI offer the best visual value.
CaratThe physical weight of the stone.Significant. Prices jump exponentially at 0.50ct, 1.00ct, and 2.00ct marks.

Elite Inspection Guide: Identifying Structural Health

Before purchasing a diamond or booking a Restoration Service, it is vital to perform a structural health check. Diamonds are the hardest natural substance, but their mounts are made of precious metals that naturally wear away. This guide is designed to help you identify "red flags" like thin shanks or flattened claws that could lead to stone loss. At our workshop in Totnes, we use high-definition microscopes to inspect for 'metal fatigue' and 'micro-stress' in settings, ensuring your diamond remains as secure as the day it was first set. We recommend a professional audit every 6 to 12 months for any diamond jewellery worn daily.

Inspection Point Red Flag Indicator Technical Risk
Claw SecurityGaps between the claw and the stone's table.The stone will vibrate, slowly grinding down the metal until it falls out.
Band DepthA 'razor-thin' appearance at the bottom of the band.Structural failure; the ring may snap or warp under light pressure.
Solder JoinsVisible lines or different coloured metal patches.Indicates a previous low-quality repair; these are prone to cracking.
TOP TIP: Perform the 'tap test' at home. Hold your ring close to your ear and gently tap the stone with your fingernail. If you hear a 'tink' or 'click', your diamond is loose and needs professional tightening immediately.

Official UK Hallmarking & Metal Purity Standards

In the UK, it is a legal requirement for all precious metal jewellery over a certain weight to be hallmarked. For the diamond buyer, the hallmark is your ultimate protection; it verifies that the 18ct gold or Platinum holding your stone is genuine and of the stated purity. Every piece at H.E. Phillips Ltd is verified by one of the four UK Assay Offices. This table explains the symbols you will find inside your diamond ring, including the standard marks for Platinum 950 and Sterling Silver 925, ensuring that the 'intrinsic value' of your metal matches the quality of your natural diamond.

Metal Numerical Stamp Purity Technical Usage
Platinum95095.0%The densest and most secure setting for high-value diamonds.
18ct Gold75075.0%The premier choice for luxury jewellery; resists tarnish and wear.
9ct Gold37537.5%The hardest gold alloy; ideal for durable, daily-wear diamond items.
Sterling Silver92592.5%The fine silver standard; look for the 'Lion Passant' symbol.

Gold Carat & Fineness Technical Guide

Gold caratage (ct) refers to the ratio of pure gold to other alloying metals like copper or silver. In the context of natural diamonds, the choice of carat affects both the colour of the setting and its structural rigidity. While 22ct gold is prized for its rich yellow tone, it is often too soft to safely hold a diamond for long-term wear. 18ct and 9ct gold provide the hardness required for secure claws and prongs. For second hand collectors, look out for the rare 15ct mark—a uniquely British standard discontinued in 1932 that signifies an authentic antique piece and a rare investment opportunity.

Carat Hallmark Percentage Historical & Technical Context
22ct Gold91691.6%Beautifully rich but very soft; best reserved for wedding bands.
18ct Gold75075.0%The global elite standard for secure, high-end diamond settings.
15ct Gold62562.5%Vintage Exclusive: A rare antique hallmark; highly sought by collectors.
9ct Gold37537.5%Durable and robust; the most scratch-resistant gold alloy.

Gemstone Encyclopedia: Diamond Character & Technicals

While diamonds are the most famous gemstone, understanding their technical properties compared to coloured stones is vital for the modern collector. Natural diamonds are unique in their "dispersion"—the ability to break white light into a rainbow of colours. They also sit at the top of the Mohs scale, making them the only stone truly suitable for 24/7 wear in engagement rings. This encyclopedia highlights the technical specifications of diamonds alongside other popular stones found in our **Workshop Projects**, providing you with the technical vocabulary to discuss rarity, durability, and 'life' with our specialists.

Stone Type Visual Character Care Requirement Mohs Hardness
Natural DiamondHigh 'fire' and 'brilliance'. Unique fingerprint of inclusions.Grease-attractant; requires weekly degreasing to maintain sparkle.10
SapphireDeep saturation (Cornflower Blue). Often exhibits natural 'silk'.Highly durable; resistant to surface scratching.9
EmeraldDistinct 'Jardin' (internal gardens). Naturally brittle.Fragile: Never use ultrasonic cleaners or harsh chemicals.7.5 - 8
RubyFluorescent red; glows in daylight. Very rare in large sizes.Robust; an excellent alternative to diamond for daily rings.9
TOP TIP: To clean your diamond at home, soak it in warm water with a few drops of mild dish soap for 20 minutes. Use a soft baby toothbrush to gently scrub the back of the stone where grease and skin oils accumulate most.

Workshop Services & Restoration Portfolio

Our workshop in the heart of Totnes is a specialist centre for the preservation of diamond jewellery. We focus on Workshop Projects that breathe new life into worn heirlooms, from the sympathetic re-tipping of Victorian claws to the complete re-shanking of antique bands. Every project is handled with artisanal precision, ensuring that the era-correct character of your jewellery is maintained while its structural future is secured. We treat every restoration as a duty of care to the billion-year-old stone it protects.


Professional Natural Diamond Knowledge Base

Value & Investment

Are natural diamonds a good investment?

Large, high-quality natural diamonds have historically proven to be a reliable store of wealth. Unlike lab-grown stones, natural diamonds have a finite supply, which underpins their market value. Over the last several decades, they have shown a steady appreciation in price, especially for stones over 1.00 carat with high clarity and excellent cut grades.

Do natural diamonds lose value when you buy them?

Like any retail luxury item, there is an initial retail markup. However, because natural diamonds are an established global commodity, they retain a significantly higher percentage of their value compared to almost any other consumer good. Choosing second hand natural diamonds is a particularly smart investment, as it avoids the initial depreciation entirely.

Why is a 1.00ct diamond more expensive than two 0.50ct diamonds?

Scarcity increases exponentially with size. Finding a single large diamond crystal in nature is much rarer than finding two smaller ones. Therefore, the price per carat increases as the stone size crosses significant weight thresholds like the 1.00ct mark.

Should I prioritise Cut over Carat?

Yes. A slightly smaller diamond with an 'Excellent' cut will out-sparkle a larger diamond with a 'Poor' cut. A superior cut makes the diamond look brighter, more vibrant, and often visually larger because of the way it reflects light to the eye.

What is a 'Triple Excellent' diamond?

This refers to a diamond that has achieved an 'Excellent' grade for Cut, Symmetry, and Polish on its GIA report. These stones represent the top tier of light performance and are the most sought-after by collectors and investors for their superior brilliance.

Is fluorescence bad for a diamond?

Not necessarily. While strong fluorescence can sometimes make a high-colour diamond (D-F) look hazy, faint or medium blue fluorescence can actually make a slightly yellowish diamond (I-K) look whiter and brighter in sunlight, offering better value for money.

Is SI1 clarity a good choice?

SI1 (Slightly Included) is often the 'sweet spot' for value. If the inclusions are 'eye-clean' (not visible to the naked eye), the stone will look identical to a much more expensive Flawless stone to anyone without a microscope.

Do natural diamonds appreciate in value?

Historically, yes. While they are not a short-term trading asset, natural diamonds have shown a long-term trend of value appreciation, particularly as the world's major diamond mines reach the end of their production life.

Authentication & Lab Grading

What is the difference between GIA and IGI?

GIA (Gemological Institute of America) is widely considered the world's most stringent and consistent grading laboratory. While IGI is a reputable lab, their grading can sometimes be more lenient. GIA certificates are universally respected and often result in a higher resale value for the diamond.

Do all diamonds have a certificate?

At H.E. Phillips Ltd, we provide GIA or other reputable certificates for most significant diamonds. Small "melee" diamonds in a cluster may not have individual reports, but they are still professionally vetted by our in-house experts to ensure they are natural and ethically sourced.

What is a 'laser inscription'?

Many modern GIA-certified diamonds have their unique report number laser-inscribed on the girdle (edge) of the stone. This is invisible to the eye but can be seen under a loupe, linking the diamond permanently to its official grading document.

How do I know my diamond is natural and not lab-grown?

Natural diamonds contain specific growth patterns and trace elements (like nitrogen) that are only possible through geological formation. We use advanced spectroscopic equipment to verify the natural origin of every stone we sell.

What is the Kimberley Process?

This is an international certification scheme designed to prevent 'conflict diamonds' from entering the market. It ensures that your diamond has been ethically mined and follows strict humanitarian and environmental guidelines.

Does a certificate guarantee the stone's value?

A certificate is an expert opinion on the stone's quality, not a price tag. However, having a reputable certificate like a GIA report is essential for accurately establishing the market value for insurance and resale purposes.

What is a 'Diamond Dossier'?

A GIA Diamond Dossier is a shorter report typically used for diamonds under 1.00 carat. It includes the 4Cs and the laser inscription but does not include a full map (plot) of the inclusions.

What is 'Proportion' in diamond grading?

Proportion refers to the mathematical relationship between the diamond's table, depth, and angles. It is these proportions that determine how efficiently the stone reflects light back to your eye.

Care & Durability

How should I clean my diamond ring at home?

A simple soak in warm water with a few drops of mild degreasing dish soap is best. Use a soft toothbrush to gently clean the underside of the stone. Avoid harsh chemicals like bleach or chlorine, which can damage the metal setting.

Can a diamond break?

Yes. While diamonds are incredibly hard, they can 'cleave' or chip if struck at a specific angle with enough force. High-profile settings or exposed girdles (edges) are the most vulnerable to accidental damage.

Why does my diamond look dull?

Diamonds are grease-magnets. Hand cream, soap, and skin oils create a film on the stone that blocks light. A quick professional clean in our Totnes showroom usually restores the brilliance instantly.

How often should I have my ring checked?

We recommend a professional inspection every 6 to 12 months. Our team will check for loose stones, worn claws, and any signs of metal fatigue that could put your diamond at risk.

Is ultrasonic cleaning safe for all diamonds?

Generally yes, but it can be dangerous for stones with significant internal fractures (feathers) or for certain vintage settings. We always perform a technical inspection before using our ultrasonic machines.

Can household chemicals damage my diamond ring?

Chemicals like chlorine and bleach won't hurt the diamond, but they can 'eat' the base metals in your gold alloy, causing prongs to become brittle and snap over time.

Should I take my ring off when I sleep?

Yes. Taking your ring off at night reduces the risk of claws snagging on bedding, which is a major cause of stone loss. It also prevents 'bedding lint' from building up behind the stone.

What is 'Symmetry' in a diamond?

Symmetry refers to how perfectly aligned the diamond's facets are. Poor symmetry can distort the light and make the stone look dull or 'lop-sided' under magnification.

Buying & Custom Design

Can I choose a loose diamond for a bespoke ring?

Absolutely. We often help clients select a loose natural diamond from our network of ethical suppliers. This allows you to prioritize the 'C' that matters most to you before we create a custom 18ct gold or platinum mount.

What is the best metal for a natural diamond?

Platinum is the gold standard for security and longevity. However, 18ct white gold is a popular alternative. For slightly yellowish diamonds (J-K), yellow gold can actually enhance the stone's character.

Do you sell second hand natural diamonds?

Yes. Our Second Hand Collection often includes beautiful natural diamonds in antique cuts, offering exceptional value and a unique historical story.

How long does a bespoke diamond ring take?

Once the diamond is selected, a bespoke mount usually takes between 4 and 6 weeks to complete in our Devon workshop, depending on the complexity of the design.

What is a 'Spread' in diamond buying?

The spread refers to the diameter of the diamond. Some diamonds are cut shallow to have a larger 'spread' (look bigger), but this often comes at the cost of brilliance and light-return.

Can you source specific diamond shapes?

Yes. Whether you are looking for a classic Round Brilliant, an elegant Emerald cut, or a romantic Pear shape, we can source specific stones to meet your exact criteria.

Do you offer insurance for diamonds?

While we don't provide insurance directly, we provide the detailed professional valuations you need to secure a specialist policy from your chosen insurer.

Can I use my own gold to set a new diamond?

Yes. Our Workshop Projects include melting down sentimental gold to create a new bespoke mount for a fresh natural diamond, combining heritage with modern style.

Local Store & Repairs

Where is H.E. Phillips Ltd located?

We are centrally located at 19 Fore Street, Totnes, Devon, TQ9 5DA. We have been a trusted name in Devon horology and jewellery for generations.

What are your opening hours?

We are open Monday to Saturday, 09:00 to 16:30. We are closed on Sundays and Bank Holidays. No appointment is necessary for general browsing or repair submissions.

Do you buy natural diamonds for cash?

Yes. We offer competitive trade-in values and cash offers for high-quality natural diamonds and precious metals. Valuations are performed on-site by our expert team.

Can you repair my diamond setting in-house?

Yes. Most Restoration Services are performed in our local workshop. This ensures your jewellery never leaves our care and allows for direct communication with the craftsman.

How do I get a diamond valuation?

Simply bring your piece to our Totnes showroom. We provide official valuations for insurance, probate, and resale, detailing all technical 4Cs data and market context.

Can you replace a lost diamond in my ring?

Yes. We specialize in sourcing matching diamonds for cluster rings and multi-stone settings to ensure a perfect match in colour, cut, and clarity.

Do you offer a diamond cleaning service?

Yes. We provide a professional 'buff and steam' service that removes years of grease and grime, restoring your diamond's original showroom fire.

What if my diamond is chipped?

In many cases, our master lapidary can re-polish or re-cut a chipped diamond to restore its appearance, though this may result in a minor loss of carat weight.


Visit H.E. Phillips Ltd in Totnes: Natural Diamond Specialists

Experience our curated collection of natural diamonds in person at our Devon showroom. Our staff are on hand to provide expert technical advice and side-by-side comparisons.

DayOpening Hours
Monday09:00 - 16:30
Tuesday09:00 - 16:30
Wednesday09:00 - 16:30
Thursday09:00 - 16:30
Friday09:00 - 16:30
Saturday09:00 - 16:30
SundayClosed
H.E. Phillips Ltd
19 Fore Street, Totnes, Devon, TQ9 5DA
Phone: 01803 866018

Customer Reviews & Diamond Testimonials

"The team at H.E. Phillips were incredible when I was looking for an engagement ring. Their knowledge of natural vs lab diamonds was so helpful, and I'm so glad we chose a GIA-certified natural stone." — R. Harrison, Totnes

"I had my grandmother's old diamond cluster ring restored here. They were so careful with the stones and the new claws they hand-crafted are beautiful. Truly expert service." — S. Miller, Devon