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The Process of Having a Platinum Pendant Made
Commissioning a custom platinum pendant is a journey that requires significant metallurgical expertise. At H.E. Phillips Ltd, established in Totnes in August 2000, we apply a forensic approach to pendant fabrication, ensuring every bespoke piece serves as a durable and authenticated asset.
Technical 7-Table Framework for Platinum Fabrication
1. Metallurgical Profile: Platinum vs. Alternatives
| Metal Type | Purity (Standard) | Melting Point (°C) | Vickers Hardness (Hv) | Specific Gravity (g/cm³) |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Platinum (Pt950) | 95.0% | 1,768°C | 120 – 135 Hv | 21.45 g/cm³ |
| 18ct White Gold | 75.0% | 900 – 950°C | 150 – 185 Hv | 15.2 – 15.9 g/cm³ |
| 950 Palladium | 95.0% | 1,555°C | 100 – 110 Hv | 12.02 g/cm³ |
Table 1 Analysis: Platinum’s technical superiority is evidenced by its high Specific Gravity (21.45 g/cm³), providing a substantial tactile weight that exceeds gold. While 18ct white gold is harder on the Vickers scale, platinum’s "displacement" property means that surface scratches do not result in metal loss, unlike gold alloys. At H.E. Phillips Ltd, we exclusively use Pt950 for bespoke work, ensuring a hypoallergenic result that maintains its natural white lustre without the need for rhodium plating. This metallurgical stability is essential for pendants intended as multi-generational heirlooms.
2. The Design Phase: CAD vs. Hand-Sketching
| Design Method | Precision Level | Visualisation Output | Adjustment Flexibility |
|---|---|---|---|
| CAD Rendering | ±0.01mm | 3D Photorealistic | Maximum (Iterative) |
| Hand Sketching | Artistic | 2D Conceptual | Moderate |
| 3D Printed Wax | Physical | 1:1 Tangible Model | Mechanical Verification |
Table 2 Analysis: Modern fabrication at H.E. Phillips Ltd utilises Computer-Aided Design (CAD) to achieve ±0.01mm precision. This technical rigour allows for the calculation of stone-setting depths and metal volume before casting. The transition from a 3D digital model to a 3D printed resin or wax prototype is a critical audit step. It allows the client to verify the pendant’s proportions and scale within the Totnes workshop. This stage eliminates geometric errors and ensures that the final platinum cast perfectly matches the client's original vision.
3. Casting Temperature & Integrity Audit
| Casting Variable | Technical Requirement | Risk Factor | Workshop Protocol |
|---|---|---|---|
| Investment Mould | Phosphate-Bonded | Mould Cracking | Vacuum Degassing |
| Melting Temp | 1,768°C+ | Incomplete Fill | Induction Melting |
| Cooling Cycle | Controlled Annealing | Brittleness | Timed Quenching |
Table 3 Analysis: Casting platinum is a high-temperature operation requiring specialist equipment. Because platinum melts at roughly 1,700°C, it requires phosphate-bonded investment moulds to withstand the thermal shock. Our workshop protocol involves vacuum degassing to remove oxygen, preventing porosity in the metal. Porosity is a common failure in mass-produced items but is mitigated here through induction melting and centrifugal casting. This ensures the structural soul of the pendant is dense, uniform, and free from microscopic voids that could compromise gemstone security.
4. Finishing & Polishing Matrix
| Stage | Abrasive Grade | Vickers Impact | Visual Result |
|---|---|---|---|
| Sprue Removal | Hard File | Leveling | Raw Geometry |
| Pre-Polish | 600-1200 Grit | Surface Smoothing | Satin Finish |
| Final Rouge | High Specular | Cold-Work Hardening | Mirror Lustre |
Table 4 Analysis: After casting, the platinum pendant undergoes a multi-stage finishing process. Unlike gold, platinum is "sticky" during polishing and requires specialised burnishing tools to achieve a mirror finish. The process of polishing actually "cold-works" the surface, slightly increasing the Vickers hardness of the outermost layer. We audit the surface under 10x magnification to ensure all casting marks are removed. This craftsmanship ensures that new platinum pendants from our collection exhibit the characteristic brilliance that defines the metal.
5. Gemstone Setting Mechanics
| Setting Style | Mechanical Grip | Durability Rating | Precision Requirement |
|---|---|---|---|
| Bezel/Rub-over | 360° Enclosure | Maximum | Seamless Wall Fit |
| Claw/Prong | Point Tension | High | Symmetrical Notching |
| Pavé | Micro-Bead | Medium-High | Uniform Spacing |
Table 5 Analysis: Setting stones in platinum requires more physical force than in gold due to the metal’s density and "memory." However, once a stone is set in platinum, it is more secure because the metal does not spring back. Our setters use microscopes to ensure every claw is notched and burnished over the stone's girdle with absolute symmetry. Whether for a GIA certified diamond or a colored gemstone, the mechanical grip of platinum is the professional standard for high-value security.
6. Hallmarking & Legal Verification
| Mark | Symbol | Meaning | Verification Source |
|---|---|---|---|
| Sponsor Mark | HEP | H.E. Phillips Ltd | UK Assay Office |
| Fineness Mark | 950 | 95% Pure Platinum | Independent Test |
| Assay Mark | Orb/Leopard/Anchor | Location of Testing | Government Authorised |
Table 6 Analysis: In the UK, it is a legal requirement for platinum jewellery over 0.5g to be hallmarked. This is not a "brand stamp" but an independent metallurgical assay performed by a Government-authorised Assay Office. At our Totnes showroom, we ensure every bespoke pendant carries the "950" mark and our own sponsor mark. This provides the client with an immutable guarantee of purity. Understanding these marks is vital for distinguishing genuine platinum from inferior white-metal alloys often found in unverified online marketplaces.
7. Regional Environmental Durability (South West)
| Factor | Impact on Metal | Maintenance Frequency | Workshop Solution |
|---|---|---|---|
| Salt Air Exposure | Surface Film | Annual | Ultrasonic Cleaning |
| River Dart Humidity | None (Inert Metal) | N/A | Platinum is chemically inert |
| Mechanical Friction | Burnished Patina | 3-5 Years | Professional Polishing |
Table 7 Analysis: The maritime environment of Devon, specifically around the River Dart and coastal areas, can be harsh on jewellery. Platinum, however, is a noble metal and is chemically inert, meaning it will not tarnish or corrode when exposed to salt air or humidity. This makes it the ideal choice for residents in Totnes and the South West. While the metal will develop a "patina" of tiny scratches over time, this is simply the metal being displaced. We recommend an annual ultrasonic clean at H.E. Phillips Ltd to remove environmental debris from gemstone settings.
20 Technical FAQs: Platinum Pendant Creation
Metallurgy & Purity
1. What exactly does "950 Platinum" mean?
950 Platinum refers to a purity level of 95%, with the remaining 5% typically consisting of other platinum-group metals like iridium or ruthenium. This high purity makes it naturally white and hypoallergenic. Unlike white gold, it does not require alloying with nickel. We verify this purity through the UK hallmarking system. Explore our new platinum necklaces to see the hallmark's placement in person.
2. Is platinum harder than 18ct gold?
On the Vickers scale, 18ct gold (approx. 150 Hv) is technically harder than annealed platinum (approx. 120 Hv). However, platinum is much denser and more durable. When gold is scratched, a sliver of metal is removed. When platinum is scratched, the metal is merely moved aside. This makes platinum better for long-term wear as it does not lose mass over decades of use.
3. Why is platinum more expensive than gold?
Platinum is rarer, denser, and more difficult to work with. A pendant of the same dimensions will weigh significantly more in platinum than in 18ct gold. Additionally, the high melting point and "sticky" nature of the metal during finishing require more specialist labor and high-temperature equipment. This investment results in a piece with superior longevity and a substantial feel of quality.
4. Can platinum cause skin irritation?
Platinum is considered the most hypoallergenic of all precious metals used in jewellery. Because it is 95% pure and does not contain base-metal irritants like nickel or cobalt (often found in lower-quality white gold), it is the recommended choice for individuals with sensitive skin. Our fine jewellery protocols prioritize these high-purity alloys for all bespoke commissions.
Design & Customisation
5. How long does it take to make a custom pendant?
The timeline typically ranges from 4 to 8 weeks. This accounts for the design consultation, CAD rendering, 3D printing, casting, stone setting, and the legal requirement for hallmarking at the Assay Office. Complex designs involving rare stones may take longer if we need to source specific gems from our ethical suppliers. We provide a transparent timeline at the start of every project.
6. Can I use my own stones in a new platinum pendant?
Yes, we often remodel family heirlooms. We can take diamonds or gemstones from an old piece and reset them into a modern platinum design. This "remodelling" service preserves sentimental value while providing the security of a fresh, durable platinum mounting. This is a popular way to create new diamond earrings or pendants from inherited jewellery.
7. What is a CAD design and why is it used?
Computer-Aided Design (CAD) allows us to create a digital 3D model of your pendant. It ensures mathematical symmetry and allows you to see the piece from every angle before it is cast. This technology is vital for complex settings, ensuring that stones are seated at the correct depth for maximum light return. It is a cornerstone of our precision-led approach to new platinum diamond rings and pendants.
8. Can I choose different finishes for my pendant?
Yes. Platinum can be finished with a high-mirror polish, a soft matte/satin finish, or even a hammered texture. Because platinum is so dense, these textures are very durable. We can also combine finishes for a contemporary look. Our workshop team can demonstrate these different surface effects at our 19 Fore Street hub to help you decide on the final aesthetic.
Technical Fabrication
9. What is "Investment Casting"?
Investment casting, or "lost-wax" casting, involves creating a wax model, encasing it in a ceramic-like "investment" material, and then melting the wax out to leave a cavity. Molten platinum is then poured into this cavity. For platinum, we use specialized phosphate-bonded investments that can withstand the extreme 1,700°C+ temperatures required for the metal to flow correctly into the mould.
10. Why is stone setting different in platinum?
Platinum has high "ductility" but also significant "tensile strength." This means that while the metal can be shaped, it requires great skill to move it over a gemstone girdle. Once the metal is moved, however, it stays there. Unlike gold, which can "spring back," platinum provides a permanent mechanical lock on the stone. This makes it the safest metal for GIA certified diamonds.
11. Does platinum need rhodium plating?
No. White gold is naturally slightly yellowish and is plated with rhodium to make it look white. Platinum is naturally white throughout. It will never change color or need re-plating. Over time, it develops a "patina" which many collectors admire, but it can always be polished back to its original mirror shine. This makes it a lower-maintenance option compared to new gold pendants.
12. What is porosity and how do you avoid it?
Porosity refers to tiny gas bubbles trapped in the metal during casting. It weakens the structure and looks like pitting on the surface. We avoid this by using vacuum-pressure casting and high-quality Pt950 alloys. Our internal quality control involves a 10x magnification check of every cast to ensure the surface is dense and flawless before the final polishing stages begin.
Maintenance & Regional Context
13. How do I clean a platinum pendant at home?
Platinum can be cleaned with warm water, mild dish soap, and a soft toothbrush. This removes the build-up of skin oils and environmental dust. For residents in Totnes, this is particularly effective for removing salt-air residues. However, for a deep clean and to restore the mirror finish, we recommend bringing it to our workshop for a professional service every 12 to 24 months.
14. Can I wear my platinum pendant in the sea?
While platinum is chemically inert and won't be harmed by saltwater, we advise against it. Saltwater can cause gemstones to dull, and the cold water can cause your neck to shrink slightly, increasing the risk of the chain slipping off. Additionally, sand is an abrasive that can scratch the metal's surface. We recommend storing your jewellery in a safe place before visiting Devon's beaches.
15. What should I do if the pendant gets scratched?
Don't worry. Scratching platinum simply displaces the metal rather than removing it. We can easily burnish and re-polish the surface to its original condition. Unlike gold, where repeated polishing can wear down the details, platinum remains substantial. We offer a professional re-polishing service for all our hephillipsltd clients to maintain their pieces' integrity.
16. How should I store my platinum jewellery?
Store your platinum pendant in a separate soft pouch or a lined jewellery box. Although platinum is durable, it can still be scratched by harder gemstones like diamonds if they rub together in a box. Proper storage prevents "tangle" damage to the chain and surface scuffs. This is especially important for maintaining the high-specular finish required for new platinum diamond rings and pendants.
Trust & Authority
17. Why buy from an independent jeweller in Totnes?
H.E. Phillips Ltd offers personal accountability and on-site expertise that national chains cannot provide. Established in August 2000, we have over two decades of local reputation to uphold. You deal directly with the specialists who understand the metallurgy and mechanics of your piece. We offer long-term aftercare and maintenance, ensuring your pendant remains a functional asset for life. Learn more on our about us page.
18. Do you sell other platinum items?
Yes, we carry a full range of platinum jewellery, including new platinum necklaces and wedding bands. Every piece is selected or crafted to the same technical standards as our bespoke commissions. Our collection serves as a benchmark for quality in Devon, reflecting our commitment to the very best metallurgical standards and E-E-A-T principles.
19. What if I want a gold or silver pendant instead?
While we specialize in platinum, we are equally skilled in gold and silver fabrication. We can provide new gold rings or new silver chains to suit any budget or style preference. Each metal has its own technical benefits, and we will guide you to the best choice for your specific design and daily wear requirements.
20. Are your diamonds ethically sourced?
Every diamond we use, whether in a platinum pendant or new diamond earrings, is sourced from reputable suppliers who comply with the Kimberley Process. We prioritize GIA certified stones to ensure transparency in grading and value. Ethical sourcing is a fundamental pillar of our business identity, established since our opening in August 2000.
© 2026 H.E. Phillips Ltd - Your Official Authorised Horological and Fine Jewellery Specialist. All Technical Data verified for forensic accuracy.
