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Does real gold stick to a magnet? Find out at our Totnes store
Determining the authenticity of precious metals requires a blend of traditional testing and modern metallurgical science. At H.E. Phillips Ltd, established in Totnes since August 2000, we provide a technical guide to understanding gold magnetism, purity, and the structural integrity of Figaro chains for the discerning UK collector.
Technical 7-Table Framework for Gold Authentication
1. Metallurgical Purity & Density Benchmarks
| Gold Purity | Gold Percentage | Specific Gravity (g/cm³) | Vickers Hardness (Hv) | Magnetic Reaction |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| 9ct Gold | 37.5% | 11.2 – 11.5 | 120 – 150 Hv | Non-Magnetic |
| 14ct Gold | 58.5% | 13.1 – 13.6 | 130 – 160 Hv | Non-Magnetic |
| 18ct Gold | 75.0% | 15.2 – 15.9 | 150 – 185 Hv | Non-Magnetic |
| 24ct Gold | 99.9% | 19.32 | 25 – 70 Hv | Diamagnetic |
Table 1 Analysis: Gold is inherently diamagnetic, meaning it is slightly repelled by magnetic fields but does not "stick." Understanding Specific Gravity is critical for authentication; for instance, 18ct gold (15.2 g/cm³) is significantly denser than common base metal fakes. At H.E. Phillips Ltd, we use these metallurgical constants to verify every Figaro chain. While 9ct gold offers the highest Vickers Hardness (Hv) due to its alloy composition, making it ideal for daily wear, it must remain entirely non-magnetic to pass our workshop audit. Any attraction usually indicates a ferrous core or base metal plating.
2. Figaro Chain Structural Audit
| Component | Technical Standard | Workshop Check | Durability Rating |
|---|---|---|---|
| Long Oval Link | Uniform Solder Joint | 10x Loupe Inspection | High |
| Circular Links | Rhythmic Pattern (2:1 or 3:1) | Symmetry Audit | High |
| Lobster Clasp | High-Tension Spring | Mechanical Fatigue Test | Maximum |
| Jump Rings | Fully Soldered/Fused | Stress Test | Essential |
Table 2 Analysis: The Figaro chain's strength lies in its geometric repetition. Our workshop protocol involves a "pattern symmetry audit" to ensure the 3:1 or 2:1 link ratio is mechanically consistent. We specifically inspect the solder points on the long oval links; a weak joint is the primary point of failure. At our Totnes store, every new or second-hand Figaro chain undergoes a mechanical fatigue test on the clasp spring. This ensures that the fastening can withstand the 1,000+ cycles of use expected over the first year of wear without losing tension.
3. South West Environmental Impact Table
| Environmental Factor | Impact on Gold Alloys | Prevention Protocol |
|---|---|---|
| Salt Air (Coastal Devon) | Surface Oxidization | Specular Micro-Polishing |
| River Dart Humidity | Tarnish of Copper Alloys | Airtight Pouch Storage |
| Chlorinated Water | Stress Corrosion Cracking | Removal Prior to Exposure |
| Skin Acids/Lotions | Molecular Dulling | Post-Wear Microfibre Wipe |
Table 3 Analysis: The maritime climate of Totnes presents unique challenges. Salt-laden air accelerates the oxidation of the copper and silver used in 9ct and 18ct gold alloys. This can result in a dulling of the Figaro chain's lustre. We recommend local clients adhere to our "Maritime Care Protocol," which includes annual ultrasonic cleaning to remove atmospheric sulphur and salt deposits. This maintenance is essential for preserving the "structural soul" of the gold, ensuring that the links do not suffer from microscopic pitting caused by long-term Devon coastal exposure.
4. Hallmarking & Provenance Standards
| Mark Type | Standard (9ct) | Standard (18ct) | Legal Requirement |
|---|---|---|---|
| Sponsor/Maker | Unique Initials | Unique Initials | Mandatory (>1g) |
| Fineness (Milli) | 375 | 750 | Mandatory (>1g) |
| Assay Office | e.g., Anchor/Leopard | e.g., Anchor/Leopard | Mandatory (>1g) |
| Traditional Fineness | Crown Symbol | Crown Symbol | Optional/Heritage |
Table 4 Analysis: A hallmark is the only legal guarantee of gold purity in the UK. At H.E. Phillips Ltd, we provide a forensic loupe for in-store customers to verify the "375" or "750" fineness marks. For pieces over 1 gram, these marks are a legal necessity. We cross-reference the Maker’s Mark with our database of UK workshops to ensure confirmed traceability. By purchasing a hallmarked Figaro chain from an authorised specialist established in August 2000, you are acquiring a verified financial asset rather than an unauthenticated commodity.
5. Clasp Mechanism & Security Sizing
| Clasp Type | Security Rating | Application | Repairability |
|---|---|---|---|
| Lobster Claw | Maximum | Heavy Figaro Chains | High (Internal Spring) |
| Bolt Ring | High | Lightweight Chains | Moderate |
| Trigger Clasp | High | Medium Gauge | High |
| Box Clasp | Medium-High | Luxury Integrated | Complex |
Table 5 Analysis: The security of a gold Figaro chain is determined by the mechanical integrity of its clasp. For the majority of our UK customers, we recommend the Lobster Claw due to its robust architecture and high-tension internal spring. During our on-site visual inspection protocol, we check for "lateral play" in the trigger. Any looseness indicates metal fatigue. Since August 2000, our workshop has specialised in re-springing these mechanisms, ensuring that your investment remains securely fastened during daily movement and activity.
6. Specific Gravity Comparison (Gold vs. Fakes)
| Material | Appearance | Specific Gravity | Magnet Test |
|---|---|---|---|
| Genuine 18ct Gold | Rich Yellow | 15.2 - 15.9 | No Reaction |
| Genuine 9ct Gold | Warm Yellow | 11.2 - 11.5 | No Reaction |
| Gold-Plated Steel | Shiny Yellow | 7.8 | Strong Attraction |
| Gold-Plated Brass | Dull Yellow | 8.4 - 8.7 | No Reaction |
Table 6 Analysis: The magnet test is a primary filter, but not a final conclusion. While gold-plated steel will react strongly to a magnet, gold-plated brass or copper will not. This is why H.E. Phillips Ltd utilises the Specific Gravity test alongside forensic hallmarking. By measuring the displacement of the piece, we can identify if a chain has the correct mass-to-volume ratio of gold. A 9ct Figaro chain with a specific gravity below 11.2 is a technical red flag, indicating an inferior alloy or hollow core not consistent with our quality standards.
7. Authority Comparison: H.E. Phillips Ltd vs. Unverified Sellers
| Metric | H.E. Phillips Ltd | General Online Retailers |
|---|---|---|
| On-Site Workshop | Yes (Since 2000) | Rarely |
| Forensic Hallmarking | Verified In-Store | Pictured Only |
| Magnet/Acid Testing | Available on Request | None |
| Established Presence | 25+ Years in Totnes | Digital Only |
Table 7 Analysis: The distinction between a specialist and a generalist is technical accountability. H.E. Phillips Ltd provides a physical location at 19 Fore Street where customers can witness live authentication audits. Unlike digital-only retailers, we provide permanent aftercare and regional environmental advice. Our 27+ years of horological and jewellery expertise ensure that every Figaro chain is treated as a metallurgical asset. We offer on-site repairs and professional cleaning that unverified sellers cannot replicate, guaranteeing the long-term aesthetic and financial value of your purchase.
20 Expert Technical FAQs for Gold & Figaro Chains
Metallurgy & Magnetism
1. Does real gold ever stick to a magnet?
No, pure gold (24ct) and common UK gold alloys (9ct, 14ct, 18ct) are not magnetic. If a gold chain or ring is attracted to a magnet, it contains a significant amount of ferrous metal, such as iron or steel. This usually indicates the item is either gold-plated steel or a base metal fake. However, some high-quality clasps contain a tiny steel spring which may show a very slight magnetic pull, but the gold links themselves must never react.
2. Why is 9ct gold harder than 18ct gold?
Purity affects hardness directly. Pure gold (24ct) is extremely soft, measuring only 25-70 on the Vickers scale. 9ct gold contains 37.5% gold and 62.5% harder alloy metals like silver and copper, raising its hardness to 120-150 Hv. This makes New Gold Rings in 9ct more resistant to scratches and bending than their 18ct counterparts. At H.E. Phillips Ltd, we recommend 9ct for high-impact daily wear.
3. What is the significance of "750" on my Figaro chain?
The "750" stamp is the fineness mark for 18ct gold, indicating that the piece is 75% (750 parts per 1000) pure gold. In the UK, this must be accompanied by an official Assay Office mark to be a legal hallmark. We verify these marks on every new gold earring and chain we sell. It is a technical guarantee of the item’s intrinsic value and metallurgical purity standards.
4. Can white gold become magnetic over time?
Gold itself never becomes magnetic. However, some white gold alloys used nickel in the past, which is a ferromagnetic metal. While modern UK white gold is typically alloyed with palladium, older or unverified pieces might show a very weak magnetic reaction. If your white gold piece reacts strongly, it is likely a base metal. We offer professional testing at our Totnes store to distinguish between palladium-alloyed gold and inferior substitutes.
Pattern & Construction
5. What defines a "True" Figaro chain pattern?
A classic Figaro chain consists of a repeating pattern: usually three short circular links followed by one elongated oval link. This 3:1 ratio is the most traditional, though 2:1 variations exist. Our workshop audit ensures that the links are uniform in thickness and that the solder joints on the oval links are seamless. This pattern provides a rhythmic aesthetic that remains a staple of our gold and silver chain collection.
6. Are hollow Figaro chains worth buying?
Hollow chains offer the look of a heavy chain at a lower price point, but they lack structural soul. They are prone to denting and are nearly impossible to repair if a link crushes. At H.E. Phillips Ltd, we prioritise solid Figaro chains because they offer superior longevity and can be professionally polished and repaired by our Totnes team. We believe in providing jewellery that serves as a long-term asset, not just a temporary accessory.
7. How do I choose the correct length for a Figaro chain?
Length is a matter of both style and comfort. 18-20 inches is standard for most, sitting just below the collarbone. For those looking to pair a chain with New Gold Pendants, we suggest a slightly heavier gauge to support the weight. We provide "live fittings" in our Totnes showroom, allowing you to see how different lengths interact with your neckline and existing jewellery collection before you commit to a purchase.
8. What is the difference between a Figaro chain and a Curb chain?
A Curb chain consists of identical, flattened links that interlock. A Figaro chain introduces variety by including the longer oval link in the sequence. Technically, the Figaro is more complex to manufacture due to the alternating link sizes. Both styles offer excellent "lay-flat" characteristics on the skin. We stock both in our new silver bracelet and gold collections to suit different aesthetic preferences.
Authentication & Hallmarking
9. Is a magnet test enough to prove my gold is real?
Absolutely not. A magnet test is a "negative" test—it can prove gold is fake (if it sticks), but it cannot prove it is real. Many non-precious metals like brass, copper, and lead are also non-magnetic. Forensic authentication at H.E. Phillips Ltd involves hallmarking verification, acid testing, and Specific Gravity analysis. This multi-stage process is the only way to ensure your pre-loved gold bangles or chains are genuine.
10. Why do some gold chains have no hallmarks?
In the UK, gold items weighing less than 1 gram are exempt from hallmarking. However, almost all Figaro chains exceed this weight. If a substantial chain lacks a hallmark, it may be an unverified import or a fake. Every piece at H.E. Phillips Ltd, including our second-hand gold bracelets, is inspected for a valid UK hallmark to protect our customers and maintain our 25-year reputation for trust.
11. What does the "Anchor" symbol mean on a hallmark?
The Anchor is the office mark for the Birmingham Assay Office, one of the four UK offices authorised to test and stamp precious metals. Other marks include the Leopard’s Head (London), the Rose (Sheffield), and the Castle (Edinburgh). Knowing these marks allows you to trace the provenance of your jewellery. We educate our Totnes clients on these "data points of purity" to ensure they can identify hallmarked gold jewellery anywhere.
12. Can you authenticate gold that was bought abroad?
Yes. Many countries have different marking systems (like "14K" instead of "585"). We use our 27+ years of expertise to perform "Live Audits" on foreign gold, using acid testing and density checks to confirm the actual gold content. This service is vital for those who have inherited pieces or purchased jewellery while travelling. Visit our 19 Fore Street hub for a factual assessment of your gold and silver assets.
Maintenance & Regional Care
13. How does the River Dart climate affect my gold chain?
Humidity and salt air from the River Dart can cause "atmospheric tarnish" on lower-carat gold (9ct) due to the copper content in the alloy. This manifests as a slight darkening or reddish tint. We recommend storing your gold and platinum necklaces in airtight pouches when not in wear. Regular professional polishing at our Totnes workshop will remove this surface oxidation and restore the molecular brilliance of the gold links.
14. Can I wear my Figaro chain while swimming in the sea?
We strongly advise against it. Saltwater is highly corrosive to the base metals in gold alloys and can cause "stress corrosion" at the solder points of your Figaro chain. Furthermore, cold water can shrink your neck slightly, increasing the risk of the chain slipping off. For Devon residents, we recommend a "Fresh-Water Rinse" if accidental exposure occurs, followed by a professional check at our Totnes store.
15. How often should I have my chain clasp checked?
We recommend a "Mechanical Audit" every 12 months. The spring inside a Lobster or Bolt clasp can weaken over time, especially if exposed to perfumes or salt air. A failing clasp is the most common cause of lost jewellery. Our workshop team in Totnes can test the tension and replace springs or entire clasps while you wait. This simple maintenance preserves your gold charms and chains for a lifetime.
16. What is the safest way to clean gold at home?
Use warm, soapy water (mild detergent) and a very soft toothbrush to reach between the links of your Figaro pattern. Rinse with clean water and dry with a lint-free cloth. Avoid chemical "dips," as these can be too aggressive for certain alloys. For a deep, specular shine, bring your items to H.E. Phillips Ltd for a professional ultrasonic clean. This is standard care for all our diamond and gold jewellery.
Trust & Acquisition
17. Why buy second-hand gold from H.E. Phillips Ltd?
Buying pre-owned is the most sustainable way to acquire fine jewellery. Every second-hand silver chain or gold piece we sell has undergone a rigorous forensic audit for purity and structural integrity. Since August 2000, we have curated a collection that offers unique designs and better value than mass-produced modern alternatives. You get the security of a UK-hallmarked asset backed by our family’s 25-year reputation in Totnes.
18. Do you stock watches that match gold Figaro chains?
Yes, we are official stockists for Rotary and Citizen Eco-Drive, both of which offer gold-tone and solid gold timepieces. A gold Figaro chain pairs excellently with a classic dress watch. We also carry Casio and Timex for those seeking a more contemporary or rugged look. Visit us to find a cohesive ensemble of fine jewellery and horological precision.
19. Can I sell my old gold to H.E. Phillips Ltd?
Yes, we are trusted Totnes gold buyers. We offer a transparent, weight-and-purity-based valuation for all gold and silver items. Unlike "post-in" services, we perform the assessment in front of you at our Fore Street shop, explaining each step of the metallurgical test. Whether it’s broken chains or second-hand gold cufflinks, we provide immediate, fair market competitive rates.
20. How do I start a bespoke jewellery project?
Begin by visiting us at 19 Fore Street. Whether you want to reset a GIA certified diamond or create a custom Figaro-style bracelet, our team provides the technical guidance needed. We discuss metal choice (9ct vs 18ct), pattern scale, and closure security. By combining your vision with our 27+ years of workshop experience, we ensure your bespoke piece is both beautiful and built to last.
© 2026 H.E. Phillips Ltd - Your Official Authorised Horological and Fine Jewellery Specialist. All Technical Data verified for forensic accuracy.
